Water in Lalibela – No Water No Life

Interviewee

Habte Yitbarek

Lalibela Tour Guide

Interviewer

Alison M. Jones

NWNL Director and Photographer

In Lalibela, Ethiopia / Blue Nile River Basin, on Sept 28, 2007

Introductory Note

Habte is a respected resident and gracious tour guide in the famed city of Lalibela, known for its underground rock-hewn churches. His uncle is the High Priest of the famed Lalibela St George’s Church. While being awed by the brilliance of the town’s unique architecture, tourists are also struck by the need of water by priests, residents and donkeys.

Centuries ago, the Lalibela worshippers survived due to an innovative architectural approach to hiding its temples of worship below ground level to avoid the invasion of those determined to quell Ethiopian Orthodox Christian communities.

Lalibela thrives due to its ancient architecture; but still faces existential threats to its future. Infrastructure for pipes and a sanitation are critically needed to ensure their tourism livelihood, farming and health.

Outline

NILE RIVER TRIBUTARIES
THE LALIBELA PLAN on WATER NEEDS
BLUE NILE DAMS
SANITATION & WATER AVAILABILITY
EROSION and TERRACING
WATER for RELIGIOUS CEREMONIES

Key Quote People here are getting lessons from the Health Minister to observe better hygiene and cleanliness. That’s why the water problem is becoming major issue. People need to get more water. –Habte Yitbarek

NWNL Hello, Habte – it’s good to see you again! Given that you and your family has always lived and worked in Lalibela, here in the heart of the Blue Nile River Basin, how would you convey the size and significance of the Blue Nile Watershed?

HABTE YITBAREK The Blue Nile watershed is the biggest watershed in the country. It controls the northern part of the country.

NILE RIVER TRIBUTARIES

NWNL Ethiopia’s Blue Nile and Uganda and Sudan’s White Nile join at Khartoum to form the Nile River’s main stem as it flows north into Egypt. Before that confluence, the Blue Nile is a critical resource for Ethiopia’s central and northern regions. What can you share about Ethiopia’s tributaries to the Blue Nile Basin; and how would you assess their significance?

HABTE YITBAREK There are many rivers joining the Blue Nile, itself a tributary, before it flows out of Ethiopia. Then in Sudan, the Tekeze, one of this region’s major rivers, joins the Blue Nile. But locally, in our Lalibela area, the Ataba River joins the Tekeze River. If you go to the Ghimba area, there are many small tributaries of the Blue Nile. But as you have seen, given the way the global weather changes, we are realizing water problems in parts of the country.

NWNL Ah, the issue of climate change! What differences do you see here in weather patterns? More rain? Less rain? Droughts?

HABTE YITBAREK Yes, I see these changes. I remember 10 or 15 years ago, we had drought. Then, these last 2 years, we’re getting better rains; but this rain sometimes starts early and finishes early. Sometimes it starts late and finishes early. It is a problem that we don’t get normal rains.

THE LALIBELA PLAN on WATER NEEDS

NWNL What is the Lalibela Plan? As I’ve driven around with you the last 5 days, I see signs for the Lalibela Plan and I pictures illustrating some of the issues that it will be addressing – like sanitation. You have pointed out to me a water tank. So, could you describe the plans around water in Lalibela itself?

HABTE YITBAREK As visitors quickly notice, Lalibela used to be a very small town, but because of tourism, the population is increasing. It is quickly growing to 25,000 residents, and so water is becoming scarce. The national government is claiming more water from this region, and is now building the reservoir I hope this problem will be solved in six months bringing us more water from the riverside.

NWNL Where does water for Lalibela’s use come from now?

HABTE YITBAREK Luckily, they dug a well and got water– enough water.

NWNL You say there are plans for that water to be piped in. What infrastructure must be created to bring it into town from the rivers?

HABTE YITBAREK Well, it needs to be pumped. There is already power arranged for that. The pipes are already there. You have seen those big pipes around town.

BLUE NILE DAMS

NWNL Are there dams on the Blue Nile in Ethiopia, other than past the dam just below Lake Tana?

HABTE YITBAREK Yes. There is a dam is for hydroelectric power very close to Bahir Dar city above Tissiat Falls. The Blue Nile boosts the country’s economy via its hydroelectric power. The government is extending dams to create more power – including for exportation.

NWNL Does Ethiopia need more new dams to store water for irrigation purposes?

HABTE YITBAREK There is a need, but I don’t know what the government’s plan will be. The government is now doing research and construction on the Tekeze River, a major river which forms the western border of Ethiopia, as well as Eritrea

NWNL How great is Ethiopia’s current need for electricity? I have seen many dams providing electricity to this region. Where does Lalibela’s electricity come from?

HABTE YITBAREK We have hydroelectric power which comes from the Fincha River, a Blue Nile tributary. This dam supplies Lalibela, but it also supplies Amerti and northern cities like in Tigray.

SANITATION & WATER AVAILABILITY

NWNL – What health issues Lalibela does face that are due to the lack of water?

HABTE YITBAREK Yes, people here are getting lessons from the Health Minister to observe better hygiene and cleanliness. That’s why the water problem is becoming major issue. People need to get more water.

NWNL I saw one poster that had a painting of two little children squatting down to relieve themselves. It made me wonder what kind of sanitation facilities are available now for Lalibela residents – forgetting the tourist hotels? How do people wash their effluent away?

HABTE YITBAREK Well, those who can manage to get pipes pay the government to get water flowing directly to their home.

For those who don’t have much money to pay for water coming into their homes, there is a common tap. They can get water with buckets, jars and so on. That’s how they get their water to use for sanitation, for food, and so on.

NWNL What do they do with their dirty water?

HABTE YITBAREK They use it for plants in their garden in their compound.

EROSION and TERRACING

NWNL I’ve seen many rivers here that have cut deep gorges through the land. This must lead to problems with erosion here.

HABTE YITBAREK I think we haven’t protected our soil. We cut down the trees and removed plants. That is why there is so much erosion.

NWNL What is being done to fix that?

HABTE YITBAREK The government has assigned people to plant trees, to make terraces, and to protect the soil – all to reduce erosion.

NWNL Has terracing been a traditional farming method here to protect land? Or is this a new concept?

HABTE YITBAREK I don’t think it is traditional here. It is a newly introduced practice the government has introduced to use people to protect our lands.

NWNL I’ve talked with Mark Chapman who studies traditional terracing and has gone on to reintroduce those methods.

HABTE YITBAREK It is occurring in south, around Jinka in the Lower Omo Valley, I think.

NWNL What would you like to see happen around Lalibela that would make it a better place for people who live here?

HABTE YITBAREK I want to see Lalibela remain green and have a sufficient water supply, I would like to see more nice roads, and have strong tourism income to improve peoples’ lives.

WATER for RELIGIOUS CEREMONIES

NWNL I am hoping I’ll come back mid-January for Timkat, which is a festive Ethiopian Orthodox Church celebration that parallels Christian Epiphany observances. I hear water is important part of the ceremonies of Timkat. Can you explain how water is a significant part of Timkat traditions?

HABTE YITBAREK Timkat is about the baptism of Christ. For Timkat in Lalibela, we set up a baptismal place in front of our hotel. That place will be filled with water in the morning for a ceremony the day before Timkat. All the priests come from all the churches to that baptismal place. There is a head priest of Timkat and he will come. He stands front of water that has been collected, lays his hands over the water there and bows to the people. He then feeds the people who are standing around the water.

So, Timkat is about baptism, about water — and about holiness of water.

NWNL Thank you, Habte. You’ve taught me much about this Blue Nile watershed, Lalibela and the gracious people who live here. Additionally, thank you and your family for including our group for dinner last night.

Posted by NWNL on April 29, 2024.
Transcription edited and condensed for clarity by Alison M. Jones.

Water in Lalibela Nile River Basin