Lake Turkana & The Turkana People

Interviewee

Paul Losute

CABESI Assistant Project Leader

Mercy Kiyapyap

CABESI Assistant Director, Social Worker

Interviewers

Alison M. Jones

NWNL Director and Photographer

Bonnie Muench

Photographer and Book Designer

In Kapenguria, Kenya, on January 14, 2013

Introductory Note

The purpose of our NWNL expedition to Kapenguria and Lake Turkana was to explore local impacts of Ethiopia’s Gibe Dams reducing water levels in this desert lake. Also, Ethiopia now is pumping water out of the Omo River for new sugar and cotton plantations. This has prompted scientists to predict Omo River flows into Lake Turkana could possibly be reduced by as much as 50%.

If the Omo inflows drop that much, one consequence is that halfway down, Lake Turkana could be divided into 2 smaller lakes separated by a new land bridge. That could spur new or renewed conflicts between now separated Turkana, El Molo, Rendille, and Gabbra people.

That possibility poses a possible greater need for CABESI’s Kitchens Without Borders’ efforts to give warring tribes places to peacefully congregate. Such peace efforts grow more essential as climates change, populations grow, and freshwater access dwindles.

Outline

LAKE TURKANA: PRESENT & FUTURE
CABESI PROJECTS AIDING the TURKANA
THE TURKANA PEOPLE
CHANGING WATER LEVEL IMPACTS

Key Quotes Lake Turkana is so big. Its beach is full of palm trees. It’s beautiful. Because of the heat, you, the first thing I do when I go there, is swim. Then I know I’m in Lake Turkana. — Paul Losute

The Turkana people know Lake Turkana hit every front page in Kenya news when the Ethiopia began building the Gibe Dams. So, they feel they’re being taking advantage of as they struggle with local droughts and insecurity more than other communities – like the Rendille and Borana who are more secure. — Mercy Kiyapyap

LAKE TURKANA: PRESENT & FUTURE

NWNL Hello Paul. Being from Kapenguria in the shadow of Mt Elgon, what were your first impressions of Lake Turkana and its Turkana villagers?

PAUL LOSUTE From the first time I went to the lake, I liked it. Lake Turkana is so big. It’s beach is full of palm trees. It’s beautiful. Lake Turkana is so big. Its beach is full of palm trees. It’s beautiful. Because of the heat, you, the first thing I do when I go there, is swim. Then I know I’m in Lake Turkana.

NWNL Do you worry about crocodiles?

PAUL LOSUTE Never. If the people there are comfortable swimming, then why shouldn’t I be swimming? If there are crocodiles here, they will alert me.

NWNL Mercy, what about your first exposure to Lake Turkana?

MERCY KIYAPYAP I discovered Lake Turkana with Rolf Gloor in 2005 or 2004. It’s an amazing place – so beautiful and still in its natural state. The people there live a natural life and have a wonderful traditional culture derived from living there. While there are some places with crocodiles, the beach is “Wow!” – both in the morning with the sun and at night with the moon. When you see the moonlight reflected on the lake, it’s beautiful, so beautiful.

CABESI PROJECTS AIDING the TURKANA

NWNL What improvements can CABESI initiate into the community life of the Turkana?

MERCY KIYAPYAP Lake Turkana has very nice locations for beekeeping, yet I see no beehives there. So CABESI could introduce beekeeping there, and then people would be forced to plant more trees, making the desert more productive — maybe even as productive as the Omo River Delta. That would be a positive environmental change.

The women themselves have great advantages, starting within their unique culture. Their strength and dedicated determination is evident as they all carry the weight of many heavy beads around their long necks that they can never remove. So, beside caring for their bees, another natural resource they tap into is the desert’s palm trees that support basket-making.

THE TURKANA PEOPLE

NWNL While at Eliye Springs, what were your relations with local Turkana people?

PAUL LOSUTE Well, the Turkana are not as welcoming as other tribes I’ve met at Lake Bogoria and Lake Baringo. The Turkana ask, “Who are you? Why are you here? What have you come to get from us?” I feel that distance every time I go to Lake Turkana, and even in Lodwar town.

MERCY KIYAPYAP Yes, it’s true that Turkana people are not very welcoming, But I visit there more and more frequently now. Maybe I’m okay because I’m a social worker and can cope with anybody. But by now, I am like their mother. And, after 2 years of going there, they now ask for me and are worried where I am.

NWNL Is there a reason they are so aloof with strangers?

MERCY KIYAPYAP I think the major problem is that by living along the lake the Turkana have no connection to visitors. The first time I was there, I wasn’t sure I’d be alive the following day. My first night, I was scared. But in the morning when I visited them, they roasted fish and I tried to talk with them. Then they said, “Oh, you are different. You can talk.” I bought some of their necklaces and finally they became friendly, asking, “Why don’t you stay here with us?” When I returned, it was mango season, so I took sacks of mangos to the kids and some tobacco for the old women to sniff.

The problem with Turkana is lack of exposure and thus awareness. Lake Baringo has many developers and tourists there. At Baringo, people are more confident and independent than Turkana who live in the desert, depending on donors and outsiders for food. They think, “Maybe someone will pick my kid to sponsor,” or “Maybe somebody will give me some food.” The Turkana wonder, “Is this my chance now?” “Is it a good day for me?”

But generally, if the Turkana know and understand you, what you are going to do, what your role is and what their role is, then they and you will feel comfortable. Any conflict is mostly because they worry that you are coming to take from them or see how you could benefit from them. The Turkana people know Lake Turkana hit every front page in Kenya news when the Ethiopia began building the Gibe Dams. So, they feel they’re being taking advantage of as they struggle with local droughts and insecurity more than other communities – like the Rendille and Borana who are more secure. The Turkana seem to exist in a box with their closed beliefs.

NWNL Are there more Turkana than other tribes in this region?

MERCY KIYAPYAP Yes. So it’s critical that somebody should come in now to sensitize them. Their culture is unique and good. They should be aware of their advantages and resources, like the presence of palm trees for making baskets. I am always struck by their women’s skills and grit when I see them at market selling their baskets and wearing those heavy beads day and night.

But still today, the Turkana lack sensitization and awareness. They don’t understand the value and attraction of their region or resources in their environment. They don’t understand why visitors would come there.

Hey, visitors come because it’s a beautiful beach! The first time I went to Eliye Springs, it was like my dream to go to Mombasa [on the Indian Ocean]. I swam in the lake and was amazed. Those of us in the desert have no water – so, when our whole body is inside water, it’s like a dream!!

CHANGING WATER LEVEL IMPACTS

NWNL How could local communities be impacted if Lake Turkana water levels drop significantly due to Ethiopia’s new dams and irrigation schemes? I know it’s a complex question because this lake has never before faced any consequences of upstream infrastructure. Plus, historically, the lake’s water levels have unpredictably and consistently fluctuated.

Nevertheless, if there was a dramatic recession of lake waters due to Gibe Dams and newly-installed irrigation schemes on the Omo, what will change for local communities? If incoming flows go down by half, could a land bridge appear mid-lake, where the depth is very shallow? If such a passage allowed people to cross the lake on foot, how would the western shore Turkana people interact with the El Molo, Rendille and Gabbra people from the eastern shore? Would it be peaceful, or would there be conflict? If troubles do arise, could CABESI play a helpful, moderating role for antagonistic tribes? Can you create a project similar to, but bigger, than your currently established “Calabash” restaurant – a successful Kitchen without Borders peace initiative?

MERCY KIYAPYAP My first response is that the Turkanas are not bad. I just think that for a long time they’ve felt that outside people are undermining them and don’t value them. This has applied to all Kenyan tribal communities since Europeans arrived, even the Maasai. At one time, Maasai were very aloof. But they’ve opened up, and now they enjoy their worldwide reputational status. The Maasai are now proud of who they are. The Turkana also need to be proud. So, the answer to your question is “Yes!” CABESI can help by opening their eyes and moving them from the shadows into open air.

NWNL They need to feel respected and you so successfully instill that.

MERCY KIYAPYAP When we interact with them we try to create a new awareness. We visit them because we respect them and admire their culture. We don’t go there to exploit them. That’s what they need to know to get along with us and with other tribal communities.

PAUL LOSUTE They feel that everybody thinks they are always hungry. They have a very low esteem of themselves. They think everybody sees them as poor and always begging. So at first, they are very sensitive, unlike the Pokot. You can go anywhere amongst the Pokot, and photograph anybody without any problem. But the Turkana do not want you to photograph them unless you ask.

MERCY KIYAPYAP Understanding the Turkana culture and respecting its people seems to be all that is needed.

NWNL Well, it certainly seems you two have initiated a rapport with the Turkana that will pave the way for more acceptance by the Turkana of the good will of most visitors. Thank you both for all you do.

Posted by NWNL on May 20, 2024.
Transcription edited and condensed for clarity by Alison M. Jones.

Lake Turkana & The Turkana People Omo River Basin